La Scolca is a name synonymous with the pinnacle of Gavi. At the helm stands Chiara Soldati, the dynamic CEO guiding the estate into its second century of excellence. She shares the precision, passion, and philosophy behind Gavi dei Gavi with Sommelier Edit.
SE: How would you describe the character of Cortese as it expresses itself in your vineyards?
Chiara Soldati:
“In our vineyards in Rovereto di Gavi, Cortese shows a character that is incredibly precise and authentic. It’s tense, saline, vibrant — and deeply linked to our territory. We benefit from sun exposure from dawn to dusk, steady natural ventilation, and strong day–night temperature swings. These elements allow slow, complete ripening. Our clay–limestone soils rich in marine sediments give the wine its linear acidity, crystalline freshness, and that unmistakable salty edge. For us, Cortese is anything but neutral. It’s refined, vertical, full of energy.”
SE: Old vines are central to La Scolca’s identity. What role do they play in Gavi dei Gavi’s depth and longevity?
Soldati:
“Old vines are the backbone of Gavi dei Gavi. Many of our vineyards are 50 to 60 years old. Over time, the roots reach deep, naturally reducing yields while increasing concentration and complexity. Grapes from these parcels have thicker skins, greater aromatic richness, and a more structured acidity. These features give the wine the ability to age gracefully for more than a decade. Longevity begins in the vineyard — the wine is ‘built for time’ long before it reaches the cellar.”
SE: How do you balance tradition with innovation in your winemaking?
Soldati:
“Our philosophy is straightforward: without excellent grapes, there is no excellent wine. Tradition means meticulous vineyard work. We walk our rows countless times through the season — managing foliage, selecting bunches, and protecting the fruit with the least intervention possible. Innovation steps in only where it safeguards the integrity of that work: gentle pressing, temperature‑controlled fermentation, inert handling of the must, extended lees ageing. Technology doesn’t shape the wine. It preserves the identity the vineyard has already created.”
SE: Gavi dei Gavi is known for its tension and texture. How do you achieve such balance?
Soldati:
“It starts in the vineyard. We harvest at the optimal moment to retain Cortese’s natural acidity, often in the early morning to protect freshness. In the cellar, gentle pressing avoids bitterness, and cool fermentation maintains purity. Then we rely on prolonged lees ageing to build volume, roundness, and creaminess — while keeping the wine’s vertical structure intact. The result is brightness on the palate with a refined, layered texture.”
SE: What evolution do you observe as Gavi dei Gavi ages over 5, 10, or even 15 years?
Soldati:
“In the first three to five years, the wine is vibrant — citrus, white flowers, and salty tension. Between five and ten years, it becomes more complex and harmonious: ripe lemon, acacia honey, flint, almond, and Mediterranean herbs appear, while the acidity remains firm. After ten to fifteen years, the mineral depth of our clay–limestone soils truly emerges. The wine gains a more Burgundian texture, savoury length, and incredible calmness. It never becomes heavy — it becomes profound.”
SE: Do you have a particularly memorable vintage of Gavi dei Gavi?
Soldati:
“Two come to mind: 2013 and 2021. Both seasons brought perfect balance — moderate heat, excellent ventilation, and marked diurnal variations. We were able to work with real precision, and the old vines responded magnificently. Today, these vintages show impressive tension, purity, and depth. They express our philosophy perfectly: obsessive attention in the vineyard, minimal intervention in the cellar, and a wine that speaks clearly even many years later.”
SE: If you had to describe La Scolca’s Gavi dei Gavi in three words?
Soldati:
“Precise. Saline. Timeless.”
