Driving around the south coast of England twenty years ago you would have no idea an agricultural revolution was coming. Travel through Kent, Sussex and Hampshire today and you cannot miss it. Sommelier Edit visits PDO Sussex vineyard Tinwood Estate to discover it’s journey so far and the route ahead.
In 1975 just under two hundred hectares (484 acres) of land in the UK was cultivated for grape growing*. Fast forward to 2022 and that area has jumped up to nearly four thousand hectares (9884 acres). After a period of stagnant growth new plantings started to steadily rise from around 2007 until 2012 when growth accelerated.
One early arrival onto the scene was the Tukker family who were already successful farmers that had pioneered the introduction of iceberg lettuce into the UK. This pioneering spirit passed from father to son when Art took over the family business from Aad in 2007 planting 28 acres (11.3ha) of vines.
The next generation
And so, the Tinwood Estate in West Sussex was established. Located just three miles from the coast and nearby Chichester it is nestled down a country lane off the main coast road where many other vineyards proudly and loudly display their signs. Protected from winds by the North Downs and from frosts by warming sea breezes in the spring, the vineyard’s foundation of flint and chalk subsoil, make its location ideal for vines. And it’s especially suitable for vines that need to produce grapes with just enough ripeness and high acidity – the bedrock for premium sparkling wine.
When I planted the first vines at Tinwood in 2007 the idea of English sparkling wine was really in its infancy. There were just a small handful of vineyards and wineries dedicated to sparkling wine at the time. There were certainly challenges, we had little industry knowledge, for instance, there were no vineyard machinery dealers, consultants, or suppliers. We had to work things out for ourselves and relied on each other for advice and support. Now of course the industry has grown and become more professional in a way. Of course, this is a good thing, but I still have fond memories of when we first began learning for ourselves what it’s like to grow vines here in Sussex. Art Tukker, Vineyard Owner, Tinwood Estate
Tukker appears to have had a very clear vision for Tinwood from the outset. After studying agriculture and farming at university he was considering the idea of planting vineyard so went off to Huia Vineyards in Marlborough, New Zealand to investigate the options.
A new dawn
When Tukker returned to the family farm he set to planting a vineyard. Being so methodical and developing a strategic business model the plan was always more than growing grapes. Providing facilities welcome visitors for tastings tours and over night stays, to offer direct sales straight from the cellar door and in his latest phase, to establish sales overseas. He started future proofing the business from the get go, making it a destination, not just for wine lovers.
From the first grape harvest in 2009 Tinwood Estate began supplying grapes to nearby winemakers Ridgeview. As the area under vine increased – today its 110 acres / 44.5ha – Art established Tinwood’s own label, working alongside Simon Roberts, Head Winemaker, Ridgeview. Each year they collaborate to create wines that are certified Designation of Origin (PDO) Sussex. Tukker is very careful not to declare himself winemaker and appears more comfortable with being known as the vineyard owner.
Managing the vines
Tinwood only grows the three main varieties planted in UK, that not coincidentally are also the three main varieties in Champagne: Chardonnay; Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. (68%* of total vines planted in the UK are classic champagne varieties).
And 76% of wines made today in the UK are sparkling, predominantly traditional method. It seems premium sparkling wine is the way to go. In 2014 the team at Tinwood experimented with making a still pinot noir wine but it didn’t have the depth of flavour, structure or quality they wanted. So for now they are focusing on traditional method sparkling wines.
The changing climate and sub soils around southern England means making quality sparkling wine is not only possible, but viable. The rise in award winning English sparkling wines succinctly illustrates this and Tinwood is no exception with multiple awards over years for its wines.
John Udall, vineyard manager at Tinwood, explained that one of the main battles in the vineyard is with deer nibbling away at the sweet first shoots. It devastates the crop for that year. And of course, the weather, notably rain, either too much or it falls at the wrong time.
While yields fluctuate wildly from year to year the visitors can keep coming to enjoy the landscape, taste the wines, tour the vineyard and visit surrounding attractions. To put this into context the most recent fluctuation was the 2023 harvest that saw 21.6 million bottles produced in England and Wales versus 2024 with 6-7 million (*provisional figure source: Wines of Great Britain).
House style
The style of wines made at the Tinwood Estate follow classic Champagne expressions. The wines are all single vintage, meaning they are made in the year the grapes are harvested. There’s no blending of different vintages which illustrates Tinwood is embracing vintage variation – which inevitably means when the yield is low then production will also be down, as in 2023.
Blanc de Blanc 2021
Crisp, fresh and firm this is a classic 100% chardonnay made by the traditional method. Oodles of green and white fruit, nicely balanced with delicate finish. A perfect wine to start your meal that can also handle smokey flavours.
Brut 2021
A blend of all three classic champagne grapes, half white and half red grape on this occasion, this wine plenty of flavour and structure. Delicate fruits and hints of bakery notes with fresh acidity and nicely balanced. Serve with main meal.
Rosé 2021
Just 9% chardonnay is in this wine so the red grapes provide the colour and red fruit aromas and flavours expected. The touch of chardonnay provides freshness to the blend and keeps the wine balanced. Perfect with puddings and cheese.
Time to hit the road to discover and taste these wines for yourself. And where better to stay?
