In the south of France, Stefan Neumann MS uncovers how the wines of Roussillon have survived and thrived – emerging as perfect partners to the region’s distinctive gastronomy
Author Stefan Neumann MS
Wines in the Roussillon have been produced as early as the 7th century; likely before that. From Greek, Phoenician and Roman influences the area of production nowadays is roughly 18,500 ha and presents itself as one of the most diverse and maybe most unique in France. The mosaic of soils and climatic influences with eight different winds and three rivers are ever present. Let’s not forget the Pyrenees mountains with its most famous peak the Mount Canigou (locally known as Mont Canigó).
Being the birthplace of fortified wines, thanks to Arnau de Vilanova, appellations like Muscat de Rivesaltes, Maury, Banyuls and Rivesaltes, are the pillars of the Vins Doux Naturels kingdom. Maury being the unique one in this quartet – where you will find since 2011 some dry, unfortified expressions too.
To survive
Wines like Rivesaltes Ambré, Tuilé and Rancio (oxidative aging) being exposed to the most unforgiving conditions and all the elements mother nature can throw at them are proof that out of the hottest fire comes the strongest steel. These wines are literally indestructible.
Having tried numerous Rancio with locally cured ham (or try Bellota ham) I can confirm that this is indeed a match made in heaven. My ever-extending waistline could verify, although with less enthusiasm, that goat or sheep cheese, especially riper examples, are nothing short of spectacular too. Try Pelardon from Cevennes or if you want to wave the British flag Dorstone or Wigmore are an equally eye-opening experience.
When it comes down to Maury, with its black schist and marl soil (mixed in some part with calco-schists), naturally people start to think about chocolate as a pairing. Rightfully so this works rather nicely – you could, however, find some Medjool dates or prunes or if you want to channel your inner Winston Churchill for a moment, then indulge in a nice Cuban Cigar. It’s rather splendid.
To thrive
Roussillon’s dry white represents a proud 8% in PDO and a stellar 26% in PGI. White wines based on Grenache can particularly impress when paired with sashimi as they often have a wonderful aroma of fennel, honeysuckle and a mouth-coating richness to it, being on par with the texture of the fish.
The term white blends doesn’t quite cut it for me, yet the reality is that blends of Grenache & Roussanne, Vermentino & Macabeu or White/Grey Carignan & Grenache are delightful. I personally couldn’t resist White and Grey Carignan (when grown on granite) may it be as a standalone or in a blend. I certainly indulged into a few too many prawns, especially when they are served with a luscious rich velouté sauce it is hard to put your cutlery down and call it a day.
The local seafood is world-renowned, from oysters to anchovies, and the myriad suggestions of what to pair with oysters is rather extensive. Anchovies, on the other hand, often prove challenging, but fear not, Grenache Gris based wines can cope beautifully with the saltiness. The best examples I have tried were grown on grey schist soils which appeared to have provided them with a nice white and green peppercorn note.
What surprised me the most, however, was that so many Roussillon white wines can age gracefully; thanks to generous hosts who were not shy in opening numerous matured examples.
You may think that surprises are few and far between in a region, which on paper seems to be scorched by the sun; however, the proximity to the sea and altitude are defining factors. It is for this very reason that Syrah can be perfumed, Carignan light footed, and Grenache sublime and fruit driven. Blend them together and you find yourself with the ultimate partner to pair meat and seafood alike – Take the local ‘surf & turf’ – a dish of squid fricassee and chorizo (see picture) which was nothing short of perfection. Just make sure to chill your red to 14-16 degrees.
Admittedly not for everyone, matured filet of the Tirabuixó porc, a pig breed originating from the Pyrenees or Catalan area, was one of my personal highlights. Cooked on the barbeque with uprooted vine stocks and charcoal providing the steady heat with just the right amount of smokiness! My focus shifted to a Grenache and Syrah blend from the Côtes du Roussillon Villages of Tautavel, which was itself a masterpiece, but with the pork just perfectly harmonious. Tautavel is famed for its limestone and rocky clay soil which seem to give the wines a wonderful line of acidity and freshness.
To succeed
Worldwide support seems to grow for wines from the Roussillon, may it be fortified or not. Producers rightfully should be proud of their diversity and uniqueness and the ability of the wines to play harmoniously with the cuisine of the world. May it be with meat or vegetarian dishes, in Tokyo or Mexico City, success is seen already in restaurants around the globe for that very reason. We wine enthusiasts seem to love sharing wines which tell an authentic story and reflect where they are grown.
Salut!
