In his debut article for Sommelier Edit, Douglas Blyde sits down with Jeffrey Koren, Head of Wine at Marceline, the newly established restaurant in Canary Wharf that is quickly gaining recognition, featuring a list that highlights English wines and offers a welcoming, inclusive atmosphere.
Since opening in August 2024, Marceline has carved out its identity in one of Canary Wharf’s riverlets, reached via a gangway which hints at a sense of arrival. Inside, the walls bear witness to the nights they’ve fuelled, with empty bottles – each adorned with guest-created cartoons – standing as liquid mementos of past indulgences. This isn’t just a brasserie; it’s a living, breathing tribute to wine. At the centre of it all is Jeffrey Koren, Head of Wine, whose career has taken him from the precision of Maaemo in Norway to the classical refinement of The Latymer in Surrey. Now at Marceline, he champions what he calls ‘classics with a twist,’ a philosophy which has earned him both guest devotion and critical acclaim.
A 1993 vintage himself – ‘a good year for people, less so for wine!’ he quips – Koren marked his 30th with 1993 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol, which, to his relief, held up well. ‘I’ve also been lucky enough to taste Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques, but it was too early in my wine journey to appreciate just how special it was. If there’s one thing 1993 did get right, it’s Armagnac.’
Koren’s route to Marceline began with a stint at Lay & Wheeler under then-MD, Katy Keating, after working at the three Michelin-starred Maaemo and one-starred Latymer at Pennyhill Park. ‘I wanted to bring my experience with the world’s finest wines and chefs to a more accessible setting – somewhere guests could genuinely enjoy great food and drink without the usual barriers.’ This ethos is reflected in the wine list, which leans on English wines, from Westwell’s skin-contact Ortega to Ridgeview’s sparkling range. Named after the owner’s grandmother – her portrait presiding over the bar – Marceline is part of a wider group which includes Hovarda and Long Chim, the latter brought to you by David Thompson, an authority on Thai cuisine, where Koren also curates the list.
For Koren, hospitality is the defining trait of an outstanding sommelier. ‘A great sommelier isn’t just about wine knowledge, but being fully engaged in service – clearing a plate, resetting cutlery, saying yes to ketchup with fries. Aloofness has no place.’
When assembling his team, he favoured those with a service-first mentality, pulling in talent from the bar world and training them in wine. ‘You can refine skills, but you can’t teach attitude – and the right mindset is what truly sets a great sommelier apart.’
When it comes to wine styles, Koren is unflinching in his stance on Viognier. ‘While Viognier has its admirers, I’ve never been captivated by it. Despite notable examples from Condrieu and Stellenbosch, I find its high alcohol and low acidity, often combined with coriander-like notes, unappealing.’ In contrast, he believes Albariño is criminally underrated. ‘Many perceive it as a simple, quaffable wine, but during my time in Galicia nearly a decade ago, I discovered its complexity and aging potential. Working with Catherine Jaën MW at Lay & Wheeler, I learned about intricate, parcel-by-parcel vinification in Sancerre, and I think there are parallels to be drawn in Galicia through micro-holdings which produce wines of remarkable depth. Even domestically, producers like Chapel Down have crafted impressive Albariños, showcasing the grape’s versatility and potential.’
A visit to Austria’s wine regions left a lasting impression, too. ‘Touring Austria, I was struck by the meticulous attention to terroir. Delving into old vines and historic vineyards, particularly in the Wachau and Kremstal regions, deepened my appreciation.’ A standout visit was to Weingut Rainer Wess, where Christina Wess assumed leadership in 2022. ‘Their labels feature three hills, symbolising their commitment to terroir. Tasting their “Alte Reben” (Old Vines) wines showcased the profound depth and character which mature vineyards can offer.’
From Profiteroles to Pre-Parker Napa
One of Marceline’s most successful pairings is a dessert – profiteroles by pastry chef, Callum Friday, matched with El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximénez. ‘The sherry’s notes of exotic spices, dark red fruits, caramel, and toasted almonds harmonise beautifully with the profiteroles.’
Koren credits much of his knowledge to two key mentors. ‘At Oslo’s Maaemo, Wine Director, Michal Gielas instilled in me the importance of precision and storytelling, emphasising the winemaker’s role in each narrative. Meanwhile, Beth Pearce MW, now of Flint Wines, provided invaluable insights into wine tasting, business, and purchasing, exemplifying exceptional leadership.’
If granted a superpower, teleportation would be his choice. ‘This ability would allow me to visit numerous vineyards around the world which are currently beyond my financial reach, such as those in New Zealand and Argentina. In New Zealand, regions like Marlborough are renowned for their exceptional Sauvignon Blanc, while Argentina’s Mendoza region is celebrated for its Malbec. Being able to instantly explore these diverse wine landscapes would be a dream come true.’
As for a surprising detail? ‘I grew up in Scotland, with my father’s family hailing from Edinburgh and Stirling. I attended university there, studying business and economics, and became an ardent Hibernian supporter, even witnessing their Scottish Cup victory against Ayr on a memorable Friday. Additionally, at 18, I had the honour of playing baseball for Great Britain.’
Given the chance to share a long lunch with any historical figure, it would be Jackie Robinson. ‘Beyond discussing his groundbreaking experiences in baseball and the broader context of American culture, I’d be keen to explore his perspectives on contemporary issues. For our beverage, I’d opt for pre-Robert Parker era Californian wines, a period when the region was considered the “Wild West” of winemaking. Tasting these vintages would offer a fascinating glimpse into California’s rich viticultural history before modern influences took hold.’
Koren, like his wines, is a mix of the classical and the unexpected – a sommelier who prizes hospitality over hauteur, a scholar of terroir with a disdain for Viognier, and a baseball-playing Hibernian loyalist with a taste for pre-Parker Napa. At Marceline, his philosophy is clear: great wine should be shared, stories should be told, and above all, no guest should feel out of place. Aloofness has no place, indeed.
