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Patience, Place and Possibility

Henry Warde talks to Sommelier Edit about Squerryes’ next chapter and the launch of super-premium Patience.

At a time when English sparkling wine is finding ever greater confidence on the global stage, Squerryes in Kent stands as a compelling case study in how heritage, terroir and storytelling can converge to create something quietly distinctive. For Henry Warde, owner and founder, the journey into wine has been both deeply personal and, in many ways, inevitable.

“We’ve been a family in Kent for 300 years,” Wade reflects, “and we’ve been lucky enough to live in a beautiful house and estate already set up.” That legacy, however, did not initially centre on viticulture. The modern vineyard story began with an unexpected visit. “In 2004 a French Champagne house visited, tracing the logic of terroir from the white cliffs of Dover. They got very excited about our site. It sparked something.”

Although no partnership emerged, the seed had been planted. “It was a no deal situation,” Warde says, “but two years later we decided to plant the vines.” That decision marked a turning point: from custodians of land to producers of wine. Today, Squerryes has spent more than two decades growing vines and around ten years bringing its wines to market, a relatively short time in wine terms, but one that has mirrored the rapid maturation of the English category itself.

Defined by chalk and time

Squerryes’ vineyards sit at approximately 150 metres above sea level, making them some of the highest in Kent. “The higher the vineyard, the more specific the site becomes,” Warde explains. “We’re cooler, we harvest about 10 days later than our neighbours, which is perfect for sparkling wine.”

The estate lies on the North Downs escarpment, where three distinct chalk layers upper, middle and lower define the landscape. It is the middle layer that Wade finds particularly evocative: “It’s that lovely chalk downwash, a weathered clay that reminds you of Burgundy almost like the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune or Nuits. There’s something very magical about that combination.”

This intersection of chalk and climate forms the backbone of Squerryes’ philosophy. “Our focus has always been to create wines that are terroir-driven,” he says. “High-altitude chalk gives energy, and Kent is the sunniest county in the UK. That balance is everything.”

Pouring a glass of Patience

Distinctly English

For sommeliers, English sparkling wine inevitably invites comparison with Champagne. Warde is clear-eyed about where Squerryes sits in that conversation.

“We’re not trying to be a tribute act to the great Champagnes,” he says. “It’s definitely English sparkling.” Yet he also asserts one of the category’s most debated advantages: ageing potential. “There’s a growing understanding that the English can age sparkling wines better than the French. It comes down to the way our soils express acidity.”

He points to Squerryes’ 2014 vintage as an example. “When it was first released, it had fine acidity and it still does but it’s just getting better and better. It’s about time. That’s what the wine is about.”

Patience’s story

Nowhere is Squerryes’ fusion of narrative and wine more evident than in Patience, the cuvée that signals the estate’s next chapter. The name draws on a deeply embedded family figure: Sir Patience Warde, a 17th-century Lord Mayor of London.

It’s rare to find a locally produced wine of this calibre, and it’s exactly what our guests are looking for an English sparkling wine that sparks conversation and reminds us why we love supporting English sparkling wine.” Michele Calemma, General Manager at Chapter Restaurants

“Patience was a wealth creator, a guardian figure, a patriarch,” Warde explains. “He unveiled the Monument in the City of London, and he was closely connected with trade importing French wine and wool. He was there right when Champagne was being created.”

These historical threads give the wine both provenance and personality. “What’s wonderful is that we’re selling these stories,” Wade says. “Patience the man, Patience the wine, and Patience the occasion.” Even the physical experience of the bottle is designed with ritual in mind. Each release features a gold-plated agrafe closure a detail that elevates the act of opening into something ceremonial. “It’s a keepsake,” Wade notes. “It speaks to the story and the occasion.”

Presenting 2014 vintage

Designing wine for the occasion

For Wade, the role of the sommelier is central to bringing this vision to life. “We’ve spent a lot of time working with sommeliers to help them understand the story and how to place the wine,” he says. “It’s a work in progress, but it’s about pitching the wine into an occasion.”

“Our motto, Licet Esse Beatis, has been from the outset about having permission to be joyful,” Warde says. “Everything we do flows from that.”

That emphasis on experience has also shaped Squerryes’ commercial strategy. Inspired in part by visits to Napa Valley, the estate has built one of the UK’s most successful direct-to-consumer wine memberships. Events such as large-scale garden parties complete with sabrage for hundreds of guests underscore the brand’s commitment to joy and celebration. “Our motto, Licet Esse Beatis, has been from the outset about having permission to be joyful,” Warde says. “Everything we do flows from that.”

Having established a strong direct relationship with consumers, Squerryes is now turning its attention more deliberately to the on-trade. “Some sommeliers know about us,” Wade admits, “but they may not have seen us widely in the market. We’ve kept distribution very tight almost entirely direct.”

That is beginning to change, with a focus on building meaningful partnerships, particularly in London. “There’s a big opportunity there,” he says. Early adopters are already signalling strong support. Federico Oddo, Head Sommelier at Gravetye Manor, sees Patience as a natural fit for contemporary diners. “Patience is the kind of wine that resonates strongly with today’s guests, who increasingly seek authenticity, provenance and a meaningful story behind the bottle. From its remarkable history to the ritual of opening the agrafe closure, every detail contributes to a memorable experience that extends far beyond the wine itself.”

Similarly, Michele Calemma, General Manager at Chapter Restaurants, highlights both quality and locality. “We’re excited to feature Patience. It’s rare to find a locally produced wine of this calibre, and it’s exactly what our guests are looking for an English sparkling wine that sparks conversation and reminds us why we love supporting Squerryes.”

At The White Hart Netherfield, General Manager Paul Bevan positions the wine within the broader category, “Squerryes Patience will be a welcome addition to our extensive English wine list, exemplifying the very highest standard of English wine today. Our guests will be able to experience something very special.”

Coming of Age

As English sparkling wine continues its upward trajectory, producers like Squerryes are helping to define what premiumisation means in a domestic context. Not simply higher prices, but deeper narratives, site specificity, and wines that reward patience in both cellar and glass.

For Wade, the journey is still unfolding. “Wine and experience is where we are right now,” he says. “The opportunity is enormous.” In the end, Patience is not just a cuvée name…it is an ethos of time, of place, and of allowing both to reveal their full expression.

Tags

English Sparkling WineHenry WadeKentPatience sparkling wineSquerryes
Charlotte Hey

Charlotte Hey

Co-founder and contributing editor, Sommelier Edit

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