There’s a moment when you approach Lympstone Manor from the winding lanes above the Exe estuary – a sudden break in the hedgerows, and there it is: a chalk-bright Georgian manor rising from Devon’s Triassic soil, surrounded by young vines and older dreams. The house, once known as Courtlands and owned by the Baring banking family, had fallen into ruin by the time Exeter-born chef, Michael Caines MBE acquired it in 2014. What followed was not simply a restoration, but a reimagining – a country house fit for the 21st century, complete with bedrooms named after estuary birds, shepherd huts for those preferring to sleep under the stars, and an estate vineyard overlooking the sea. ‘The vine likes to see the water,’ says Caines. ‘Most of the great vineyards of Europe are near rivers. So why not the Exe estuary?’
The first 17,500 vines – Chardonnay, and Pinots Noir and Meunier – were planted in May 2018, and the inaugural harvest arrived in 2020. From that vintage, the Triassic Pinot Noir garnered Gold for Best Red English Wine at the International Wine Challenge. By autumn of that year, after 36 months on lees, Lympstone’s debut sparkling, Classic Cuvée 2020, was debuted. It’s in this extraordinary setting, somewhere between the vineyard and the table, that Anton Kuts has found a new kind of purpose. ‘The experience I am gaining at Lympstone Manor is absolutely priceless,’ he says. ‘It’s not just a job. It’s a way of life.’
From Ukraine to the English Coast
Born and raised in Ukraine, Kuts spent 15 years at Wine Bureau, the country’s largest importer. ‘During that time, I was involved in a wide range of responsibilities, including private client sales, wine buying, teaching at our wine school, and organising wine tours across the world,’ he says. In 2022, he relocated to the UK with his wife and daughter, uncertain of what might come next. ‘But I was incredibly fortunate – I applied for the first job I saw and, just a week later, started working as Head Sommelier at THE PIG-on the Beach. It was my first experience in hospitality, and it turned out to be absolutely wonderful.’
Kuts soon discovered he enjoyed the energy and immediacy of restaurant service. ‘I had the chance to explore the UK wine market, discover a wide range of new wines, and get to know local winemakers. I met many amazing people, some of whom I still keep in touch with to this day.’ Eager to grow, he segued to Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds – a step into the rarified world of Michelin-starred service. ‘It was a significant contrast: from managing 150–200 covers a day at THE PIG to working with a completely different level of cuisine, wine list, and service. It was a new and exciting challenge – and a valuable next step.’
When the role at Lympstone appeared, he didn’t hesitate. ‘It was the natural progression for me: the chance to work alongside the legendary Michael Caines at a place with an outstanding reputation, a world-class wine list – and, of course, its own vineyard.’
A Sommelier Among the Vines
Since joining in March (2025), Kuts has immersed himself in every aspect of the estate’s busy wine programme. ‘I try to spend as much of my free time as possible in the vineyard before my restaurant shifts. I work side-by-side with Steve Edwards, our Operations Director and Vineyard Manager. I missed the winter pruning, but I’ve taken part in nearly every stage since: clearing the vineyard after pruning, bud rubbing, grass and canopy management, and everything in-between.’ He adds, ‘It’s very important for me to follow the full cycle, from start till harvest. We’re also in discussions with Lyme Bay Winery, who make our wines, so I can participate in post-harvest operations too. Being part of the vineyard work brings a completely different level of connection to the wine we serve.’
In addition to the Triassic Pinot Noir – ‘named after the Triassic soils that define our terroir’ – and the flagship Classic Cuvée, which ‘truly reflects the character of our vineyard’, the range includes the Isabeau Rosé, ‘named after Chef Michael Caines’ youngest daughter’, and the Edwards Chardonnay – ‘a very limited release, with just 549 bottles made, named in honour of Steve Edwards, our Operations Director and Vineyard Manager’. There’s also a house-distilled gin and a small run of eau de vie made from grape pomace. ‘A rosé sparkling wine is a possibility,’ hints Kuts. ‘Time, and nature, will tell.’
When pairing wines with the cuisine of Michael Caines and head chef, Jordan Denning, Kuts sees it as both craft and dialogue. ‘Their food is elegant, layered, and complex. When the chefs are planning to introduce a new dish, I get the chance to taste it during early development. From there, I organise tastings with them, and together we explore different pairing options until we agree on the wine that best complements the dish. For me, it’s crucial to find a wine that enhances the flavours of the food without overpowering it. Harmony is key. But our work is not just about flavour – it’s also about storytelling. I always try to select wines that carry a compelling story, a unique style, or an element of surprise.’
On the subject of surprise, Kuts recalls an earlier service mishap, thankfully not at Lympstone. ‘A guest brought in a bottle of Meursault and asked us to serve it with corkage. I placed it in the blast chiller to bring it to temperature quickly, then got caught up in a very busy service and completely forgot about it. By the time I remembered about it, the wine had completely frozen – we’d accidentally created ice wine from Meursault! Fortunately, the guest was incredibly understanding. I offered a replacement of a similar style from our list and they were happy with the solution.’
The Mighty Steve Edwards
Kuts credits the team around him, particularly Steve Edwards, who is more than a name on a bottle. ‘A legend with over 39 years of experience in hospitality across various roles, he has built up a wealth of knowledge – and what’s truly special is how generously he shares it, especially when we’re out working in the vineyard together. I consider Steve a mentor, not just professionally but personally. Working alongside him often reminds me of time spent with my grandfather in his garden – always full of wisdom, stories, and life lessons.’
Ask him about the wine trade more broadly and he becomes more serious. ‘I wish we could return to the days before Brexit, when it was easier to import wine directly from Europe without additional tariffs and fees. This would help keep wine prices fair and allow restaurants and consumers alike to enjoy a wider variety of European wines without extra costs.’
But back to more positive matters. Wine memory, says Kuts, is one of his greatest talents. ‘I can remember the exact wine I drank at a party three years ago, but I’ll probably forget where I put my keys five minutes later.’ Hence, he can recall bottles from his birth vintage of 1988. ‘A truly great year, especially for sweet Bordeaux.’ From that era, one of his most memorable bottles was the Sauternes Château Gilette 1988. ‘Absolutely extraordinary.’
Erudite and curious, his most-thumbed wine book is The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode. And if he could share a long lunch with anyone, it would be Peter Richards MW and Susie Barrie MW. ‘I’m a big fan of their podcast, Wine Blast. Their energy, storytelling, and the way they communicate about wine is truly inspiring. They make complex topics feel accessible, engaging, and full of personality. Of course, I’d love to share with them the wines we make at Lympstone Manor.’
If he had to give up a wine style? ‘Honestly? None. But if I had to choose what I couldn’t do without – it would be anything sparkling. The more bubbles, the better.’ As for cocktails: ‘Pisco Sour. Anything with that perfect balance of acidity and sweetness.’ And his ideal superpower? ‘Never spill a single drop of wine.’
For now, Anton Kuts is content among the tendrils of the vines and crystal stemware, between the estuary and the dining room. Lympstone Manor may not be a traditional wine estate, but its sommelier has become something rare – a man who doesn’t just talk about terroir but lives it, one vintage, and one guest, at a time.
