{"id":7662,"date":"2025-05-01T16:49:16","date_gmt":"2025-05-01T15:49:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/?p=7662"},"modified":"2025-05-01T16:49:16","modified_gmt":"2025-05-01T15:49:16","slug":"desiree-chantarasak-be-yourself-but-know-your-margins","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/pt\/desiree-chantarasak-be-yourself-but-know-your-margins\/","title":{"rendered":"Desiree Chantarasak: Be Yourself, But Know Your Margins"},"content":{"rendered":"<h3><em>At AngloThai, Michelin-starred mere months after unbolting its doors, Desiree Chantarasak assembles a wine list as provocative as the dishes it amplifies. Once a designer, she now delves into the liquid soul of bottles, including a brace named after her children. Amid the furnace of restaurant life, she maintains the equilibrium of family, ferment, and grace under pressure: a woman who has rewritten the sommelier\u2019s script with verve, vinyl, and a corkscrew\u2026<\/em><\/h3>\n<p>A crab broth, deepened with eel stock and haloed by marigold, opens proceedings like the curtain-raiser to an obscure arthouse film: bold, bewildering, and unrepentant. If you\u2019re still seated after the first spoonful, you deserve to see how this ends. Then: a sea buckthorn margarita &#8211; mezcal-led, Chinotto-splashed, verjus-laced &#8211; and a teetotal Paloma which makes sobriety taste almost illicit. Later, a timeworn amber Chardonnay from Slovenia &#8211; Walter Mle\u010dnik\u2019s ruminative elixir &#8211; curls up beside Blythburgh pork, scallop roe and a smoked chilli relish which one critic called \u2018fiendishly complex.\u2019<\/p>\n<div id=\"gallery-1\" class=\"wpex-gallery wpex-grid wpex-grid-cols-2 wpex-gap-20 wpex-lightbox-group wpex-mb-20\"><figure class=\"gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Blythburgh-Chop-Pork-Fat-Smoked-Chilli-Relish-1.jpg\" class=\"wpex-lightbox-group-item\" data-caption=\"Blythburgh pork, scallop roe and a smoked chilli relish\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Blythburgh-Chop-Pork-Fat-Smoked-Chilli-Relish-1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Blythburgh-Chop-Pork-Fat-Smoked-Chilli-Relish-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Blythburgh-Chop-Pork-Fat-Smoked-Chilli-Relish-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Blythburgh-Chop-Pork-Fat-Smoked-Chilli-Relish-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"gallery-caption wpex-last-mb-0\">Blythburgh pork, scallop roe and a smoked chilli relish<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class=\"gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Seabuckthorn-Margarita-2-1.jpg\" class=\"wpex-lightbox-group-item\" data-caption=\"sea buckthorn margarita\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Seabuckthorn-Margarita-2-1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Seabuckthorn-Margarita-2-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Seabuckthorn-Margarita-2-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Seabuckthorn-Margarita-2-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"gallery-caption wpex-last-mb-0\">sea buckthorn margarita<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p>Desiree did not spring from hospitality\u2019s conventional incubators. Her first act unfolded in the tasteful composure of Country &amp; Town House, followed by an interlude at Amazon, where human warmth was algorithmic at best. But fate, ever the playful arsonist, struck at Climpson\u2019s Arch. There stood John Chantarasak &#8211; half-Thai, half-British, a culinary dual citizen &#8211; stoking Som Saa\u2019s coals during its pre-Brat heyday. \u2018John introduced me to the world of hospitality &#8211; such a welcoming community,\u2019 she says.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>What followed was not just love, but mutual fascination. They married, dreamed aloud, drank deeply at P. Franco, schemed over stemware, and eventually opened.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3><strong><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7669 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/241102-AngloThai-Interiors-399-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"980\" height=\"648\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/241102-AngloThai-Interiors-399-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/241102-AngloThai-Interiors-399-1-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/241102-AngloThai-Interiors-399-1-768x508.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/strong><\/h3>\n<h3><strong>Design with Soul, Fire in the Kitchen<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>The Marylebone premises, formerly The Gate &#8211; a temple to tofu and turmeric juice &#8211; was reborn by Thai-American designer, May Redding. Her interiors read like a love letter to controlled disorder: Chamchuri wood tables, an abstract painting by a Chiang Mai reiki healer, Welsh pottery, and 1970s Tannoy Devon speakers which pulse as much as the diners. The result: a room with the lived-in warmth of a home which loves you back. It\u2019s a soft foil to the pyrotechnics and chilli pepper pep of the kitchen.<\/p>\n<p>Desiree speaks for the wine with discreet authority, never brash, rarely predictable, aided by assistant sommelier and writer, Nicole Ritchie (formerly of Noble Rot). Sourcing comes courtesy of Modal, Newcomer and Howard Ripley. The cellar may be small in scale, but its contents have spines. \u2018We champion personality,\u2019 she notes. \u2018Super simplistic wines get lost alongside John\u2019s food.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Her palate was tempered, in part, by Peter Honegger of Newcomer Wines, whose Dalston bar hosted a defining lockdown residency. \u2018Peter asked the right questions,\u2019 she recalls. It was there her compass tilted Austria-ward &#8211; specifically towards the fastidious, biodynamic duo, Josef Schenter and Julia Nather of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nibiru.wine\/origin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nibiru<\/a> in Kamptal. \u2018People who live the way they make wine.\u2019 They\u2019ve become the spiritual godparents of two expressions, bottled in litre format, and named after the couple\u2019s children. \u2018Rufus\u2019 &#8211; a gloriously strange trio of Merlot, Zweigelt and M\u00fcller-Thurgau &#8211; is textured, loquacious. \u2018Aubrieta,\u2019 after the resilient purple flower in Desiree\u2019s mother\u2019s garden, collages M\u00fcller-Thurgau with Gelber Muskateller. \u2018Josef saved the 2019 vintage for us when we lost out on a site. That loyalty still moves me.\u2019<\/p>\n<div id=\"gallery-2\" class=\"wpex-gallery wpex-grid wpex-grid-cols-3 wpex-gap-20 wpex-lightbox-group wpex-mb-20\"><figure class=\"gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-Coconut-Ash-Cracker-2-1.jpg\" class=\"wpex-lightbox-group-item\" data-caption=\"Brixham Crab, Exmoor Caviar &amp; Coconut Ash Cracker\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"980\" height=\"652\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-Coconut-Ash-Cracker-2-1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-Coconut-Ash-Cracker-2-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-Coconut-Ash-Cracker-2-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Brixham-Crab-Exmoor-Caviar-Coconut-Ash-Cracker-2-1-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"gallery-caption wpex-last-mb-0\">Brixham Crab, Exmoor Caviar &#038; Coconut Ash Cracker<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class=\"gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_@CHARLIEMCKAY_ANGLOTHAI6864-1.jpg\" class=\"wpex-lightbox-group-item\" data-caption=\"The dining room at AngloThai\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_@CHARLIEMCKAY_ANGLOTHAI6864-1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_@CHARLIEMCKAY_ANGLOTHAI6864-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_@CHARLIEMCKAY_ANGLOTHAI6864-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_@CHARLIEMCKAY_ANGLOTHAI6864-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"gallery-caption wpex-last-mb-0\">The dining room at AngloThai<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class=\"gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Delica-Pumpkin-Fig-Leaf-Pumpkin-Seed-Ice-Cream-1.jpg\" class=\"wpex-lightbox-group-item\" data-caption=\"Delica Pumpkin, Fig Leaf &amp; Pumpkin Seed Ice Cream\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"980\" height=\"652\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Delica-Pumpkin-Fig-Leaf-Pumpkin-Seed-Ice-Cream-1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Delica-Pumpkin-Fig-Leaf-Pumpkin-Seed-Ice-Cream-1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Delica-Pumpkin-Fig-Leaf-Pumpkin-Seed-Ice-Cream-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/AngloThai-Delica-Pumpkin-Fig-Leaf-Pumpkin-Seed-Ice-Cream-1-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"gallery-caption wpex-last-mb-0\">Delica Pumpkin, Fig Leaf &#038; Pumpkin Seed Ice Cream<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p>Among her favoured pairings: jungle curry ox tongue &#8211; a slow-cooked throb of a dish, best mopped up with hand-torn brioche glazed in butter &#8211; met by \u2018Naturaleza Salvaje\u2019, a punk-souled Clarete from Navarra. This riotous co-ferment of Garnatxa Blanca, Garnatxa Azul and Garanza, raised in clay, tastes like it was bottled in Doc Martens.<\/p>\n<p>There is no place on her list for whites which are dry, joyless, and bone-thin. \u2018I like wines which say something.\u2019 The same standard is applied to ros\u00e9. Instead of the pallid parade from Provence, she pours Ben Walgate\u2019s Sussex-born Pinot Meunier saign\u00e9e. \u2018The depth, precision and elegance of his wines are fantastic. Champion personality!\u2019<\/p>\n<p>While working, mothering and surviving, Desiree studied wine &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wsetglobal.com\/wset-school-london\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WSET<\/a>, evenings and weekends. \u2018To understand the rules before I broke them.\u2019 This foundation led to a stint at what is now Divine Cellars in Clapham. \u2018In Marylebone, with a premium clientele, that foundation matters,\u2019 she says. \u2018You work out which gaps need filling.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>The list remains European by design. \u2018It\u2019s not anti-New World\u2019 so much as a quest for coherence. AngloThai is deeply local. Ingredients include black-faced Hebridean sheep from Ryall Farm in Dorset, farmed by Desiree\u2019s family, wild-caught monkfish from Devon, Suffolk-grown holy basil, and ancient grains &#8211; all nurtured on British soil. As for the wines: \u2018There\u2019s so much nearby worth shouting about.\u2019<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7687\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7687\" style=\"width: 980px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-7687 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_Anglothai_Hero_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_Anglothai_Hero_1.jpg 980w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_Anglothai_Hero_1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/final_resized_Anglothai_Hero_1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7687\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Desiree and John Chantarasak, co owners, Anglo Thai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h3><strong>Vision, Grit and Flower-Shaped Crackers<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Desiree walks the fine wire between sommelier and mother. \u2018You can have a family and be in this world,\u2019 she says, naming friend and fellow parent, Emily Acha Derrington, wine director at Manteca and Oma. \u2018It is possible.\u2019<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>She and John are two halves of a circuit. \u2018John always calls me the ying to his yang. He\u2019s focused on the kitchen and I\u2019ve been more front of house and drinks. We, dare I say it, cover all bases.\u2019 And it\u2019s not just pots and palates. \u2018John has many facets,\u2019 she adds. \u2018He\u2019s always done our finances. He has a business economics degree.\u2019<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Their path has rarely been straight. \u2018But our partners, Jake and Marco at <a href=\"https:\/\/mjmk.co.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">MJMK<\/a>, believed in us &#8211; and in our vision.\u2019 MJMK &#8211; the London group behind KOL, Casa do Frango, Lisboeta and Fonda &#8211; were right to back them. AngloThai was awarded its first Michelin star just three months after opening, praised for \u2018reimagined and innovative dishes aplenty.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Before finding a permanent home, the couple ran \u2018Baan\u2019, a supper club from their flat. At one dinner &#8211; Desiree, eight months pregnant &#8211; she knocked over a wine glass with her belly. \u2018We\u2019d lost sites, were doing dinners to show the press what we wanted to do,\u2019 she recalls. That plucky initiative birthed a signature: crab, caviar and a coconut cream made in-house, served with a charcoal cracker shaped using a traditional Thai flower stamp.<\/p>\n<p>Asked whom she\u2019d most like to share a bottle with, Desiree chooses Alecia Moore &#8211; Pink, to the stage &#8211; whose Damascus sip was reportedly Ch\u00e2teau de Beaucastel. \u2018She got me through many a scenario. I went to see her perform last year and was thrilled to discover she actually makes wine herself.\u2019 Presumably, they\u2019d uncork a bottle of the singer\u2019s Two Wolves from Santa Barbara County. And then there\u2019s her mother, Susan. \u2018My rock. Even more so since I had children. A working woman, with many careers under her belt. \u201cInspiring\u201d doesn\u2019t even come close.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>So, what makes a great sommelier? \u2018The trick,\u2019 she says, \u2018is balancing personality with purpose. Knowing when to charm, and when to sell. Be yourself, but know your margins.\u2019<\/p>\n<h5 style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>Anglo Thai\u00a0<\/em><i>\u2013\u00a0<\/i><em><a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/Hc8F97zRTPRbKEys7\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">22-24<\/a> Seymour Place, London W1H 7NL\u00a0<\/em><i>\u2013 <\/i><em><a href=\"https:\/\/anglothai.co.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">anglothai.co.uk<\/a> \/\/ <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/anglothai\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@anglothai<\/a><\/em><\/h5>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>At AngloThai, Michelin-starred mere months after unbolting its doors, Desiree Chantarasak assembles a wine list as provocative as the dishes it amplifies. Once a designer, she now delves into the&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":244,"featured_media":7682,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[114,531,128],"tags":[592,595,593,594],"class_list":["post-7662","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interview","category-restaurants","category-sommeliers","tag-anglothai","tag-desiree-chantarasak","tag-michelin","tag-thai-cuisine","entry","has-media"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Desiree Chantarasak: Be Yourself, But Know Your Margins | Sommelier Edit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Co-owner Desiree Chantarasak assembles a wine list as provocative as the dishes it amplifies at Michelin-starred AngloThai in London.\" \/>\n<meta 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