{"id":7083,"date":"2025-03-27T08:31:07","date_gmt":"2025-03-27T08:31:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/?p=7083"},"modified":"2025-04-10T10:43:46","modified_gmt":"2025-04-10T09:43:46","slug":"jeffrey-koren-aloofness-has-no-place","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/pt\/jeffrey-koren-aloofness-has-no-place\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeffrey Koren: Aloofness Has No Place"},"content":{"rendered":"

In his debut article for Sommelier Edit<\/em>, Douglas Blyde sits down with Jeffrey Koren, Head of Wine at Marceline, the newly established restaurant in Canary Wharf that is quickly gaining recognition, featuring a list that highlights English wines and offers a welcoming, inclusive atmosphere.<\/h3>\n

Since opening in August 2024, Marceline has carved out its identity in one of Canary Wharf\u2019s riverlets, reached via a gangway which hints at a sense of arrival. Inside, the walls bear witness to the nights they\u2019ve fuelled, with empty bottles – each adorned with guest-created cartoons – standing as liquid mementos of past indulgences. This isn\u2019t just a brasserie; it\u2019s a living, breathing tribute to wine. At the centre of it all is Jeffrey Koren, Head of Wine, whose career has taken him from the precision of Maaemo in Norway to the classical refinement of The Latymer in Surrey. Now at Marceline, he champions what he calls \u2018classics with a twist,\u2019 a philosophy which has earned him both guest devotion and critical acclaim.<\/p>\n

A 1993 vintage himself – \u2018a good year for people, less so for wine!\u2019 he quips – Koren marked his 30th with 1993 Vieux Ch\u00e2teau Certan Pomerol, which, to his relief, held up well. \u2018I\u2019ve also been lucky enough to taste Domaine Armand Rousseau P\u00e8re et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques, but it was too early in my wine journey to appreciate just how special it was. If there\u2019s one thing 1993 did get right, it\u2019s Armagnac.\u2019<\/p>\n

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Marceline dining room (Credit: Bennie Curnow)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Koren\u2019s route to Marceline began with a stint at Lay & Wheeler under then-MD, Katy Keating, after working at the three Michelin-starred Maaemo and one-starred Latymer at Pennyhill Park. \u2018I wanted to bring my experience with the world\u2019s finest wines and chefs to a more accessible setting – somewhere guests could genuinely enjoy great food and drink without the usual barriers.\u2019 This ethos is reflected in the wine list, which leans on English wines, from Westwell\u2019s skin-contact Ortega to Ridgeview\u2019s sparkling range. Named after the owner\u2019s grandmother – her portrait presiding over the bar – Marceline is part of a wider group which includes Hovarda and Long Chim, the latter brought to you by David Thompson, an authority on Thai cuisine, where Koren also curates the list.<\/p>\n

For Koren, hospitality is the defining trait of an outstanding sommelier. \u2018A great sommelier isn\u2019t just about wine knowledge, but being fully engaged in service – clearing a plate, resetting cutlery, saying yes to ketchup with fries. Aloofness has no place.\u2019<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

When assembling his team, he favoured those with a service-first mentality, pulling in talent from the bar world and training them in wine. \u2018You can refine skills, but you can\u2019t teach attitude – and the right mindset is what truly sets a great sommelier apart.\u2019<\/p>\n

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French Onion Soup (Credit: Harriet Langford)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When it comes to wine styles, Koren is unflinching in his stance on Viognier. \u2018While Viognier has its admirers, I\u2019ve never been captivated by it. Despite notable examples from Condrieu and Stellenbosch, I find its high alcohol and low acidity, often combined with coriander-like notes, unappealing.\u2019 In contrast, he believes Albari\u00f1o is criminally underrated. \u2018Many perceive it as a simple, quaffable wine, but during my time in Galicia nearly a decade ago, I discovered its complexity and aging potential. Working with Catherine Ja\u00ebn MW at Lay & Wheeler, I learned about intricate, parcel-by-parcel vinification in Sancerre, and I think there are parallels to be drawn in Galicia through micro-holdings which produce wines of remarkable depth. Even domestically, producers like Chapel Down have crafted impressive Albari\u00f1os, showcasing the grape\u2019s versatility and potential.\u2019<\/p>\n

A visit to Austria\u2019s wine regions left a lasting impression, too. \u2018Touring Austria, I was struck by the meticulous attention to terroir. Delving into old vines and historic vineyards, particularly in the Wachau and Kremstal regions, deepened my appreciation.\u2019 A standout visit was to Weingut Rainer Wess, where Christina Wess assumed leadership in 2022. \u2018Their labels feature three hills, symbolising their commitment to terroir. Tasting their \u201cAlte Reben\u201d (Old Vines) wines showcased the profound depth and character which mature vineyards can offer.\u2019<\/p>\n