{"id":7359,"date":"2025-04-10T10:42:33","date_gmt":"2025-04-10T09:42:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/?p=7359"},"modified":"2025-04-22T14:01:11","modified_gmt":"2025-04-22T13:01:11","slug":"stuart-skea-lyla-edinburghs-rising-star","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/pl\/stuart-skea-lyla-edinburghs-rising-star\/","title":{"rendered":"Stuart Skea: Lyla, Edinburgh\u2019s Rising Star"},"content":{"rendered":"

In a dining room of just 28 covers, Edinburgh\u2019s culinary ascent finds one of its most articulate expressions. Lyla is a statement of precision, personality, and poise, shaped not only by the finesse of chef Stuart Ralston, but also by the return of Stuart Skea, one of Scotland\u2019s most quietly influential sommeliers\u2026<\/i><\/h3>\n

In a city whose culinary reputation is rising like a well-proofed loaf, the 28-cover Lyla has swiftly claimed its place among the UK\u2019s dining elite. Set in a stately Georgian townhouse once home to the acclaimed 21212, Edinburgh\u2019s latest Michelin-starred restaurant is already turning heads. The Michelin Guide praised its elegant, sustainability-led focus on Scottish seafood, noting \u2018eye-catching dishes\u2019 with \u2018subtle yet complex blends of flavours and textures.\u2019 Cond\u00e9 Nast Traveller named it one of the Best New Openings of 2023, while the Food & Travel Awards 2024 crowned it Restaurant Newcomer of the Year. It debuted at number 28 on the National Restaurant Awards list and was singled out by the World\u2019s 50 Best as one of the most exciting new openings in the UK. The accolades mark not just Lyla\u2019s rapid ascent, but the return of one of Scotland\u2019s most respected sommeliers, Stuart Skea, who ranked seventh place in our 2024 Top 100 Sommeliers<\/a>.<\/p>\n

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Lyla restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For the Glasgow-born Skea, stepping back into the building which once housed 21212 is both nostalgic and poignant. \u2018It\u2019s a bittersweet experience, given the circumstances,\u2019 he reflects. \u2018My first head sommelier job was at 21212 back in 2012, and I enjoyed two wonderful years there. It helped to shape my career and remains an important part of who I am. Life takes strange turns, but it\u2019s nice to be back on familiar ground.\u2019 The legacy of the late Paul Kitching, the visionary behind 21212, lingers in the space, ensuring a standard of excellence which Lyla now upholds. \u2018Paul is an ever-present figure,\u2019 Skea says. \u2018The best way we can honour his memory is to keep the place full of life, light, old-fashioned hospitality, and excellent cooking.\u2019<\/p>\n

Sommelier Reloaded: The Skeaquel<\/b><\/h3>\n

Skea\u2019s return has also reunited him with Gordon Ramsay trained head chef, Stuart Ralston, who worked under Daniel Humm, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Ralston\u2019s meticulous approach to flavour and presentation has long resonated with Skea\u2019s palate. The two previously worked together at Ralston\u2019s flagship, Aizle, which serves a blind-tasting menu, forging a professional rapport built on mutual respect and a shared belief in hospitality as performance, not pretence. \u2018Stuart\u2019s cooking is disciplined but never dull,\u2019 says Skea. \u2018It is rooted in clarity and confidence, which makes pairing both easier and more interesting. There\u2019s no need to mask or mollify – just complement.\u2019<\/p>\n

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He may be based at Lyla, but Skea\u2019s influence radiates outwards. \u2018I work closely with the other venues, looking at training and overseeing the lists,\u2019 he says of Aizle, the NYC neo-izakaya Noto, and Italian-inspired Tipo. \u2018We opened Tipo in 2023, the same year as Lyla, and it was fun to build a list from scratch.\u2019<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Each restaurant bears its own vinous fingerprint. \u2018At Lyla and Aizle, we have a nice selection of grower champagnes, working closely with the excellent Sip and Vinetrail. Tipo and Noto both offer orange and natural options by the glass as well as good value classics,\u2019 he explains. A pair of Sangioveses at Tipo encapsulate his approach: \u2018Fattoria di Sammontana IGT Toscana is our \u201chouse wine\u201d, if you like – it has purity coupled with just the right amount of rusticity. Il Borghetto Bilaccio, also based in Chianti, moves in a more elegant direction with whole bunches and used 228 litre barriques – the \u201cpinosity\u201d of Sangiovese, but with a transparency and identifiable sense of place.\u2019<\/p>\n