{"id":3636,"date":"2024-01-15T13:35:19","date_gmt":"2024-01-15T13:35:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/?p=3636"},"modified":"2024-02-05T13:37:02","modified_gmt":"2024-02-05T13:37:02","slug":"how-to-identify-left-bank-and-right-bank-bordeaux-wine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sommelieredit.com\/nz\/how-to-identify-left-bank-and-right-bank-bordeaux-wine\/","title":{"rendered":"How to identify left bank and right bank Bordeaux wine"},"content":{"rendered":"
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

The Sommelier Edit talks and tastes with top ch\u00e2teaux owners about four of the most iconic neighbouring red wine producing appellations in Bordeaux.<\/h2>\n

First up Saint-Emilion, one of the biggest fine wine appellations in France, covering 5,400has of vineyard, and Pomerol, which is tiny in comparison with 815has.<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

Right Bank<\/b><\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

Saint-Emilion<\/b><\/h4>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

Jean-Antoine Nony of Ch\u00e2teau Grand Mayne<\/a> in Saint-Emilion describes the appellation as \u201ccomplex\u201d.<\/p>\n

\u201cSaint-Emilion is made up of lots of small estates, averaging 5has each, and the region has about 1,000 ch\u00e2teaux,\u201d he explains. \u201cMost of the classified growths are between 10-40has in size. It is a wide appellation, and this is the reason why you cannot say that there is a defined typicity in the region.\u201d<\/p>\n

The soils here are dominated by a limestone plateau surrounded by clay slopes, which develop into fine clay. Towards the River Dordogne the vineyards are on more sandy areas. Interestingly, the top wines that are members of the Union de Grands Crus in Saint-Emilion come mainly from around this plateau and vineyards close to Bordeaux.<\/p>\n

Looking at two iconic estates, like Ch\u00e2teau Ausone and Ch\u00e2teau Cheval Blanc, for example you can see that they are on completely different terroirs. Ausone is situated at top of the Saint-Emilion appellation, on a limestone plateau: pure limestone with a little bit of clay. Whereas Cheval Blanc is located further north-west, towards Pomerol, less than 10 kms away, where the terroir has more clay and a bit of gravel. They are both located in the same appellation, but they are on very different terroir.<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1702393112556-ab75a4b7-5988-4″ include=”3062,3638″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

Royal Pomerol Approval<\/b><\/h4>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

Nony has a unique vision of Pomerol. He started with an anecdote about the region\u2019s most famous wine, Ch\u00e2teau Petrus.<\/p>\n

He suggested that the wines of Petrus are famous in England because they were served at Queen Elizabeth II\u2019s wedding. \u201cThe owner of Petrus at the time, Madame Labat, who was a big fan of the young princess and decided to send her a case,\u201d Nony explains, \u201cThe Queen decided to serve it at her wedding.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cBefore this, Pomerol was a very little-known appellation. With the help and persistence of the owners, past and present (the Moueix family), the rise of Petrus has contributed to the development of this fantastic terroir.\u201d<\/p>\n

Terroir<\/b><\/h4>\n

The terroir around Petrus is clay and blue clay on the plateau, made up of many small plots \u2013 like a tiny village. Pomerol has many points in common with Saint Emilion: it is on the right bank, where Merlot is king.<\/p>\n

Nony explains that \u201cIn Pomerol around 80-90% of plantings are Merlot, in Saint-Emilion there is more Cabernet Franc \u2013 a grape which is helping to address the challenges of climate change today.\u201d<\/p>\n

He adds, \u201cA good example of this, as the owner of Ch\u00e2teau Grand Mayne, we used to have 90% Merlot planted, up until 20 years ago. Today, we have 30% Cabernet Franc, which is the proportion the estate was planted during my grandfather\u2019s time, during the 1950s. Then Merlot was easier to work, it was more popular and fashionable.\u201d Nony points out that, \u201cHowever, the Cabernet Franc clones were not so good then. Now, we have come back to Cabernet Franc because it is good and gives a lot of finesse and elegance to the wines.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bordeaux\u2019s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides the growers with a climate that is typified by a lot of rainfall, about 800mm per year. Nony says that \u201cThe problem comes when you have a lot of rain and the temperatures rise \u2013 this creates a perfect climate for fungus, the famous being mildew, which we don\u2019t like because Merlot is more susceptible to it than Cabernet Franc, for example. As a result, we are increasing the percentage of this variety in the right bank.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1\/2″][vc_column_text]\n

2016<\/h3>\n

CH\u00c2TEAU GRAND MAYNE<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

SAINT-\u00c9MILION<\/p>\n

85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3648″][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”1\/2″][vc_column_text]\n

2016<\/h3>\n

CH\u00c2TEAU GAZIN<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

POMEROL<\/p>\n

87% Merlot, 5% Cabernet France, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3646″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

2016 in Bordeaux<\/b><\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

According to these esteemed producers, 2016 was a top vintage in Bordeaux. Everywhere, not just left bank or right bank or Sauternes, but everywhere. It was great in quality and quantity.<\/p>\n

Jean-Antoine Nony says, \u201cMy family\u2019s estate is situated on a slope of limestone and clay; 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Grand Mayne is the Ch\u00e2teau next door to Petrus. Between the two wines we tasted today, perhaps there is more porous structure in the Grand Mayne, more tannin, more structure than in the Gazin. But, after ageing it develops more roundness and becomes more supple. Pomerol is a fantastic appellation, it\u2019s the appellation that made me fall in love with wine.\u201d<\/p>\n

Carolina Seibel<\/a>, assistant head sommelier at Petrus restaurant in London comments, \u201cI prefer it when a wine has more Cabernet Franc, for me it has more spice. Yes, Pomerol is Merlot, it\u2019s elegant, it\u2019s silky, it\u2019s perfect but there\u2019s something more interesting when you add Cabernet Franc.\u201d<\/p>\n

Jean-Antoine Nony agrees explaining about a program he has established since taking over the estate in 2012 to restore the vineyards until 2035. He explains that he is working to attain 40% Cabernet Franc in the blend, \u201clike my grandfather in the 40s. Massal selection is a long journey that takes years, but the work is underway.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row typography_style=”white” css=”.vc_custom_1702393075853{background-color: #678ca5 !important;}”][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

Climate is top priority for Bordeaux<\/b><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

According to Nony, who says: \u201dTo be honest, we are all focused on one thing, global warming. It is having a massive impact. My parents took care of the Ch\u00e2teau from 1977 to 2011 and they had one frost, one hailstorm, that was it.\u201d<\/p>\n

He elaborates, \u201cSince I took over in 2012, I already have had to deal with five frosts, no hail, but every year seems to be terrible. In 2018, we lost 60% of our production due to mildew. Being organic is something we are working towards, and we are partly organic, but we don\u2019t put this on the label.\u201d He concludes, \u201cAs a family estate we don\u2019t have the power of big business to protect us. So, to keep it in the family we have to be able to make some wine.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column]

<\/div>[vc_column_text]\n

Left Bank<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

According to the Bordeaux experts, the main distinction between Left and Right bank is the gravel and the stones in the soil. This is very important on the left bank, the stones come from the riverbed with the movement of the water millennia ago.<\/p>\n

\u201cThese gravel soils in M\u00e9doc are very important where Cabernet Sauvignon is King,\u201d explains Nony. \u201cM\u00e9doc is essentially grown in a swamp. There is water all around. The maximum altitude is 23 meters above sea level with gentle slopes made up of gravelly stones. This low altitude means water is available in spring when it is needed and not retained in the soils during the summer. This is essential for ripening of Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve those aromas of black fruits, cassis, blackberries \u2013 these characteristics would not be possible if the soils are waterlogged.\u201d He adds, \u201cTo ensure grapes have good concentration winemakers need dry conditions. For the variety to ripen adequately and give the right levels of tannin you need dry conditions. Gravel soils make this possible.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1\/2″][vc_column_text]\n

2010<\/h3>\n

CH\u00c2TEAU LASCOMBES<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

MARGAUX<\/p>\n

55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3650″][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”1\/2″][vc_column_text]\n

2010<\/h3>\n

CH\u00c2TEAU CROIZET-BAGES<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

PAUILLAC<\/p>\n

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”3644″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

Margaux<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

Margaux has 21 classified growths and is the closest appellation to the city of Bordeaux. \u201cIt has a variety of soils, some we call \u201chot\u201d, others are cooler,\u201d says Anne-Fran\u00e7oise Qui\u00e9 of Ch\u00e2teau Rauzan-Gassies & Croizet-Bages. \u201cThese tend to be those areas further from the river because of the cooling effect of the water underneath which is good for Petit Verdot and Merlot. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be planted at the top of the hills.\u201d\u00a0 She says that \u201cthe older growths have vineyards that spread out across the appellation and the different ch\u00e2teaux must work together to work the land for everyone\u2019s benefit. This makes the producers the best of neighbours. In Margaux the winemakers are making wines across these different vineyard plots, and this characterises the appellation when it comes to blending and creating complexity in the wines.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]\n

Pauillac<\/h3>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]\n

\u201cWhereas in Pauillac the vineyards tend to be in one place\u201d continues Qui\u00e9. \u201cMore or less situated around the individual ch\u00e2teau. They are discreet in Margaux, the big personalities in Pauillac! In Pauillac most of the time the wine is one strong expression ; a direct, powerful wine. A different style of blending the final wine, made from the different grape musts of just one location.\u201d<\/p>\n

Nony adds, \u201cIt is often said that Margaux wines are more feminine. In Pauillac, the wines are more masculine, a direct expression, but perhaps for me it based on your mood that day. So, what do you want today?\u201d<\/p>\n

Kateryna Polianska, sommelier at Cory by Clare Smyth, adds that, for her: \u201cIt\u2019s difficult to consider these regions are genders. Margaux is always melt in the mouth, it is smooth and elegant; whereas in Pauillac, you feel the strength. I personally like to think of the Left bank as a family. Margaux is the Queen, Saint-Julien is the King and Pauillac is the young prince.\u201d<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”3064″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]\n<\/section>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text] The Sommelier Edit talks and tastes with top ch\u00e2teaux owners about four of the most iconic neighbouring red wine producing appellations in Bordeaux. 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